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About ordering … and about your V-M equipment
Q1: How do you order from this site? There is no "shopping basket"?!
A1: All you have to do is click on to let me know what you are interested in! I offer something called personal service - I know its old fashioned - but it is the only way! Believe me, with millions of parts for V-M built products plus needles and cartridges for many brands - its difficult to put it all on line. Unless I am on vacation, you will usually hear back from me within 36 hours with a quote, with shipping and handling, and forms of payment accepted. Think of V-M Audio Enthusiasts as your V-M Factory Parts source - plus more with our new record changer offerings!
Q2: I sent you an email requesting a quote or information but never heard back from you!
A2: Unless I am on vacation, I usually write back within 36 hours. If you did not hear from me, its either because your email never reached me or because I tried to contact you, but my e-mail response to you was sent back to me as "undeliverable". Here are some helpful hints:
Q3: I need an idler wheel - or needle, stylus, or cartridge - or other part. What information do I need to provide to you?
A3: If it is a Voice of Music® brand product, all I need is the V-M model number and a description of what you need. If the part is such that it cannot be described unambiguously from your description, I will need the V-M part number available from the Service Manual. I will do my best to help you determine the correct part the first time as neither of us has time to waste with returns! There are photos of Phonograph Needles and Cartridges, Phonograph Idler Wheels, and Tape Recorder Drive Wheels with part number information to aid in identification - but remember I have millions of other parts too! If you have a V-M built record changer in a different branded unit, the V-M Model number of the unit can be determined (click on Brands Using V-M Components for more information).
Q4: I am now the owner of a V-M product - what information is available to get it / keep it working properly?
A4: I recommend starting with the technical literature! Service manuals are available for all V-M products. Many have important trouble shooting tips, illustrations, and lubrication information. Owner’s manuals are available for almost all V-M products. Manuals may be original or reprints depending on the model. From the service manual, you can determine what parts you may need and inquire with the correct V-M part number! Click on and email me with the V-M Model number of the unit you have and I will quote price of manuals with shipping and handling!
Q5: I have a V-M product. What is it worth?
A5: Your product was built in Benton Harbor, Michigan by hard working people who really cared about what they were doing. As for value, I would say its priceless! In terms of cash exchanging hands - well, that's hard to determine because condition, presentation to the seller, the economy and other factors come in to play. Some models have become quite "pricey" as the reputation of V-M Corporation for good sound, quality, reliability, and serviceability has grown over the years. However, the newer "solid state" models will not command the prices the older "tube" models do. Consoles because of their size also have a limited market. Still, they are all wonderful machines - built to be serviceable for a lifetime (or longer!). One suggestion is to go to the auction web sites and search on completed auctions for Voice of Music or the generic product (phonograph, tape recorder, etc). That will give you some idea of current value.
Q6: I am going to ship this unit - what do I do?
A6: The BEST insurance that your prized V-M will get there in one piece is GREAT and AMPLE PACKAGING!!!
IF YOUR MODEL CONTAINS A RECORD CHANGER • To unfloat changer: Locate two shipping screws clearly visible from topside. One is under the tone arm and the other on the opposite side of the platter. Turn screws COUNTER-CLOCKWISE until changer rests securely on its base! Do this to prevent damage to changer and case during shipment.
IF YOUR MODEL CONTAINS A TAPE RECORDER • Be sure the STOP button is fully depressed in its LOCKED position. Damage to the main escutcheon and/or a flat spot on the driving wheels can result if the STOP button is not fully depressed.
Q7: I don’t hear any sound coming out of my phonograph, except for a faint sound when I put my ear next to the tone arm. What’s wrong?
A7: If there is no or very low sound coming out of the unit, the phonograph pickup cartridge may be "dead". Here is a simple check: If you can make contact with your finger on the wires leading to the cartridge and hear a loud buzz with the unit on and volume up, then the amplifier is probably fine and the cartridge is the culprit. If you do not hear a loud buzz, then you need to have your phonograph checked by a professional servicer.
Q8: My record changer is not operating properly. What are the common problems?
A8: BASIC RECORD CHANGER INFORMATION
Your V-M record changer was designed to be serviced! Here are some basic tips!1) The changer should be examined for the condition of the lubrication. Old grease can "harden" or "turn to a dry white powdery dust." Both are harmful and can damage the mechanism!!!
2) To remedy, a complete disassembly, degreasing (with solvents), reassembly and relubrication are recommended.
3) If the idler wheel has a flat spot from being stored "in gear" or is otherwise deteriorated, it should be replaced with a new or rebuilt idler.
4) The needle should DEFINITELY be replaced if you don’t know the history of the unit or how many hours it has on it. As a guideline, diamond needles have about 400 hours life and sapphire needles about 60 hours. Worn needles ruin records!!!!
5) The above maintenance and checks should be performed every 40 years to keep your V-M record changer in top condition!
Q9: My record changer or player or tape recorder runs slow - what could be the problem?
A9: Phonograph and tape recorder motors need lubrication just like any other mechanical component that moves - especially if the motor and unit have been stored in a damp basement or garage for a period of time. Assuming the motor does not need replacing for other reasons, here is how to bring the motor in your machine roaring back to life:
1. First, take the motor apart. Carefully remove both the upper and lower bearings from the shaft. Use a product like Liquid Wrench or WD40 if frozen. In more extreme cases, carefully apply a little heat with a hair dryer or heat gun. Pay attention to which way the stator is oriented (mark "up" with a grease pencil).
2. Soak the bearings and shaft in lacquer thinner for a few hours to get out old grease. Do this in a well ventilated area, and away from flames or electrical sparks!!! Also make sure the lacquer thinner does not get in the windings. Use a cotton swab soaked in lacquer thinner to complete the job of cleaning the bearings.
3. Soak the felts and bearings in 20-30 weight non-detergent oil to relubricate. Reassemble, paying attention to the stator orientation. The bearings are self aligning - so gently tap the end of shaft while the motor is running to ensure the bearings do not bind. If the motor runs backwards, reassemble with the stator oriented in the opposite direction.
Q10: I have this V-M tape recorder, but when I turn it on, nothing happens?
A10: Your V-M tape-o-matic® tape recorder may contain an automatic shutoff mechanism that is activated if no tape is threaded past it. First, make sure that the STOP button is fully depressed in its LOCKED position. Then, turn on the power and the pilot light (if present) should light and you should hear the motor run. The instructions for threading a tape are included in the lid of most models - if the unit has power but the reels fail to move in other modes (PLAY, RECORD, FAST FORWARD, REWIND), then a faulty belt or wheel is most likely the cause. Click on for more information and parts availability!
Q11: The fabric on the case of my V-M product is dirty and dull. What should I do to clean it?
A11: To clean the leatherette, I recommend waterless automotive hand cleaner. Gentle enough for hands but tough on dirt. Actually helps "feed" the leatherette and prevents it getting brittle. Rub it in and wipe clean with a soft dry cloth. A fine bristle (not stiff) toothbrush can be used to "get in the grain". Repeat procedure if case is heavily soiled. Of course, always test on a small surface first to make sure the leatherette is color fast!
Q12: The volume or tone controls cut in and out or produces "static" when I move it. How do I fix it?
A12: Your volume or tone control probably just needs a good cleaning. If you are mechanically inclined, you can remove the back of the console or access the amplifier and carefully disassemble it until you can gain access to the controls. Places like Radio Shack sell "control cleaner" or "tuner lube" that is in a spray can with a thin red snout for spraying it in tight places. You need to gain access to the control and stick the snout into where the wires are soldered and spray a brief while - and move the control back and forth. One or two applications should take care of the problem. If that does not do the trick - if your unit is a tube unit, it is possible the tube is making poor contact with the tube socket. Remove each tube and use a pencil eraser or other mild abrasive to clean the tube contacts. Reassemble and check to see that the problem has gone away.
Q13: I would like to make certain modifications to my phonograph to play stereo records / get better sound / etc.
A13: Being a purist, I do not get involved with re-engineering V-M products! Besides potentially degrading the collector value of an "all original" machine, it is very difficult to anticipate all requirements and parts that would make the modification successful. My suggestion is to consider selling your present model and purchasing another V-M phonograph or tape recorder that better matches your needs.
Q14: I have a switch on my tape recorder with two positions called "Stacked" and "Staggered." What does it do?
A14: First, a little history. The very first stereo format was on reel to reel tape! V-M Corporation offered a conversion kit for the venerable Model 700 in 1955 - some three years before stereo records and five years before stereo FM broadcasts! The first format? Very simple - take a second half track monaural head, turn it upside down, and mount it to the right of the existing head. Connect it up with another pre-amp and you have the "staggered" format! The tapes were recorded with the starting points of the "L" and "R" tracks "staggered" so that both signals would be in sync when picked up by the playback heads. This format is also called "offset". In 1958, as magnetic head manufacturing capabilities improved, the "stacked" or "in-line" format was invented - and remained the broadcast standard for many years - the so-called "half track stereo" format. The V-M Model 714 was a hit because it had a switch to play both the newer "stacked" and older "staggered" formats. In November of 1959, V-M brought out the Model 720, the first on the market to play the new "quarter track" tapes.
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